After my crash during the Manila-Matnog-Manila in November of 2011, I decided that I should get another motorcycle. I travel more than 40kms one way on a daily basis during weekdays and it is too much of a hassle for me to use the public transportation. Because of this aversion, I insisted on using my crash damaged Honda Bravo until the steering stem became a two piece part (luckily while parking the motorcycle.) It could have been worse, I know.
The motorcycle market in the Philippines has changed for the better. Several years ago, the choices are very limited if you're out on a lookout for a new ride especially if you're on a budget. It is either the underbones or the 'pantra' which are the business types that will eventually be attached to a sidecar for hauling more cargo and people. Now aside from the Japanese Big 4 we've got Chinese and Indian brands even Malaysian offering a variety..... from scooters to tourers. It therefore makes sense to formulate a criteria to aid in the selection process. I have the outline below.
Cost
I am a poor guy with a limited budget and although I'd like to have a powerful motorcycle I don't have that much moolah to burn. Based on my evaluation, I can only afford to throw away about Php 60k for a new bike. My dream motorcycles by the way cost 100-150k. But even before buying the bike, I have this idea of selling it after a year perhaps. The cash will be then used to fund the purchase of my dream ride.
Power
I used to have a Honda Wave 125 and although it is more powerful than my Bravo I want my next bike to be something that is more powerful. The Bravo cruises at about 80kph and could probably go up to 90kph but stability is a big concern. I want something that can cruise happily at 100kph. Top speed doesn't really matter but I'd be happy if it can go beyond 110kph.
Reliability
This is one of the characteristics that is a bit tough to estimate. In this case you can't help but rely on the experiences of those who bought the bike and took to time write a review. I spent a great deal of time lurking on internet forums digesting the feedback. I've also asked and observed the actual users and my area.
Efficiency
I have a car and although it is quite frugal, my choice of transport is still the motorcycle because it is even more frugal. My next ride should not get anything lower than 40km/L.
Looks
I am more a "function over form" guy and I don't really care if my bike looks ugly. For as long as it is clean and does what I'd like it to do, I am happy. But I wouldn't mind if my new bike will turn out to be an catcher. Also, I don't want another underbone and I'm leaning towards a standard bike design (referred as backbone types in some literature.)
There you go. I know that this may not be the most complete list but it should guide me and probably another in choosing his/her next bike.
Good luck and happy hunting to us.
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Samsung Galaxy Y Charger Hack
My old and trusty Magellan GPS is due for retirement. The rubberized cover is now starting to peel off. One-third of the LCD display is busted due to a fall while travelling at about 80kph. I used it mainly for tracking back my traveled path and also as an alternative speedometer..etc. It is really a bare unit with only the basic map installed. I just used my imagination to make the most out of the gadget.
Recently, I was given this Android phone called Samsung Y with built in GPS. And so now, the Samsung Y can now replace the old Magellan.
There's a problem though. When the GPS sensor is ON, and off course some navigation applications need to be active as well, the phone battery lasts only for some hours. The logical step therefore is to find a way to extend battery life or have a charger always connected. The phone charges via USB, by the way
I bought a CDR King 12V to USB charger for less than 100php (for those residing outside the Philippines, CDR King is a well-known shop selling electronics and computer stuffs.) Sure, it charges the phone but only when it is OFF. Once the phone is turned on, charging stops. This is unacceptable. How can I use the phone's GPS function if it is turned off?
Some hacking will be required. Before proceeding, please read my warning below.
DISCLAIMER : IF YOU DECIDE TO REPLICATE THIS MODIFICATION, I WON'T BE LIABLE TO ANY DAMAGE THAT IT MIGHT CAUSE. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
After opening the casing of the charger, I noticed that the two middle pins of the USB connector are just floating. I took a 10k resistor from my parts box and used it to short the two floating pins one by one to either GND or +5V. The phone still won't charge.
I took another 10k resistor and shorted both floating pins to GND. The phone beeped and the charging icon came up.
Soldering finalized the hack.
This is the intended application.
It looks like more effort will be needed but at least the phone now charges while it is turned ON!!!
Recently, I was given this Android phone called Samsung Y with built in GPS. And so now, the Samsung Y can now replace the old Magellan.
There's a problem though. When the GPS sensor is ON, and off course some navigation applications need to be active as well, the phone battery lasts only for some hours. The logical step therefore is to find a way to extend battery life or have a charger always connected. The phone charges via USB, by the way
I bought a CDR King 12V to USB charger for less than 100php (for those residing outside the Philippines, CDR King is a well-known shop selling electronics and computer stuffs.) Sure, it charges the phone but only when it is OFF. Once the phone is turned on, charging stops. This is unacceptable. How can I use the phone's GPS function if it is turned off?
Some hacking will be required. Before proceeding, please read my warning below.
DISCLAIMER : IF YOU DECIDE TO REPLICATE THIS MODIFICATION, I WON'T BE LIABLE TO ANY DAMAGE THAT IT MIGHT CAUSE. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
I took another 10k resistor and shorted both floating pins to GND. The phone beeped and the charging icon came up.
Soldering finalized the hack.
This is the intended application.
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Bravo R conversion (2)
After the research and armed with valuable information mostly gathered from the PBRC forums, the next logical step is to decide which way to go. There are actually several options on how the conversion task can be accomplished. Of course it really depends on how deep someone's pocket is.
NOTE : Pictures are not mine so credits goes to their respective owners.
Too help me with the decision, I divided the parts needed into two groups, required and optional.
Handlebar -- required
The original Honda Bravo handlebar just slides into the exposed portion of the steering stem. Just align the holes in both the handlebar and steering stem, insert the bolt into the aligned holes and then secure it with a nut on the other end. XRM or Raider style handle bars are clip-on types which can be attached at the end of the fork tubes.
Fork Bridge -- required
Locally, this is known as the butterfly. Machine shop service is needed depending on which motorcycle it was originally designed. From what I've read so far, if it is an XRM part, the hole where the steering stem goes through needs to be enlarged. With Raider and Motorstar MSX, no need because it just slides in nicely.
Fork tubes -- required
The original ones attached will have to be replaced with longer ones.
Fork sliders -- required
At least three options are available for this part and also depends whether if you want disc brake or not. By the way, this part is as known as the fork covers locally. The original sliders can still be used but it needs to be dismantled and the tubes removed. As mentioned above, the longer fork tubes will be used instead. This also means that front stopping will still be employing the drum brake.
Another option is to buy fork sliders designed for Honda Wave100R which is disc brake ready. More parts will have to be bought if this will be the choice.
The third one is to buy XRM forks which are also disc brake ready. My only concern with this option is that it is a different design and might affect the motorcycle's handling. With XRM fork, the front wheel axle bolt is located at the end of the fork itself. If a line is drawn from the fork tube to the axle bolt head/nut, the line will pass through both. Wave100 and Bravo forks on the other hand has the axle bolt placed slightly forward.
Disc brake -- optional
A whole kit with all the necessary parts can be bought. Make sure that the forks are ready as discussed above. The wheel hub will need to be changed as well to accommodate the disc. Some parts inside the wheel hub but related to the speedometer will be needed as well.
Front wheel fender -- required
The original can be retained if the stock fork sliders will be used. Not sure if the same is true with the other options but I've seen fenders for Wave100 with clips and they looked really different compared to stock.
Steering stem -- optional
Can be replaced with the one that comes from an XRM. There were reported issues about the bearings and turn radius.
I'm on a tight budget and the most likely choice for me obviously is the cheapest option. Keep as much stock parts as possible so I don't have to buy a lot of parts. I think I would just retain the drum brake. Now the hunt for parts begins....
Good luck to me!
Part 1
NOTE : Pictures are not mine so credits goes to their respective owners.
Too help me with the decision, I divided the parts needed into two groups, required and optional.
Handlebar -- required
The original Honda Bravo handlebar just slides into the exposed portion of the steering stem. Just align the holes in both the handlebar and steering stem, insert the bolt into the aligned holes and then secure it with a nut on the other end. XRM or Raider style handle bars are clip-on types which can be attached at the end of the fork tubes.
Fork Bridge -- required
Locally, this is known as the butterfly. Machine shop service is needed depending on which motorcycle it was originally designed. From what I've read so far, if it is an XRM part, the hole where the steering stem goes through needs to be enlarged. With Raider and Motorstar MSX, no need because it just slides in nicely.
Fork tubes -- required
The original ones attached will have to be replaced with longer ones.
Fork sliders -- required
At least three options are available for this part and also depends whether if you want disc brake or not. By the way, this part is as known as the fork covers locally. The original sliders can still be used but it needs to be dismantled and the tubes removed. As mentioned above, the longer fork tubes will be used instead. This also means that front stopping will still be employing the drum brake.
Another option is to buy fork sliders designed for Honda Wave100R which is disc brake ready. More parts will have to be bought if this will be the choice.
The third one is to buy XRM forks which are also disc brake ready. My only concern with this option is that it is a different design and might affect the motorcycle's handling. With XRM fork, the front wheel axle bolt is located at the end of the fork itself. If a line is drawn from the fork tube to the axle bolt head/nut, the line will pass through both. Wave100 and Bravo forks on the other hand has the axle bolt placed slightly forward.
Disc brake -- optional
 |
| XRM type fork sliders |
Front wheel fender -- required
The original can be retained if the stock fork sliders will be used. Not sure if the same is true with the other options but I've seen fenders for Wave100 with clips and they looked really different compared to stock.
 |
| Probably Bravo or Wave 100 fork sliders |
Steering stem -- optional
Can be replaced with the one that comes from an XRM. There were reported issues about the bearings and turn radius.
I'm on a tight budget and the most likely choice for me obviously is the cheapest option. Keep as much stock parts as possible so I don't have to buy a lot of parts. I think I would just retain the drum brake. Now the hunt for parts begins....
Good luck to me!
Part 1
Bravo R conversion (1)
My 2009 Honda Bravo now has 72,000++ kms in the odometer and although I am hopeful that it is not yet nearing its end-of-life, it could happen anytime. Since it will be dead anyway, I thought now is the best time to do some experiments and learn something out of the experience.
One of the projects although not really a priority is doing the BravoR conversion. In this particular conversion, the odd looking handlebar will be gone and will be replaced by a more normal looking steering parts.
At the moment, I am in research mode and fortunately, the guys at PBRC did a good job in documenting the process. Below are some notable excerpts from the PBRC website regarding Bravo R conversion.
http://hondabravo.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/2747347-honda-bravo-r-conversion?page=1
From aouei
Sa mga boszing natin jan na gustong magkaroon ng idea kuna magkanu at paano nabuo ang Honda Bravo-R conversion, subukan natin i discuss dito ang mga duguang bulsa at nabawas na taba ng utak natin para lang maisabuhay ang pangarap nating
"Honda Bravo-R".
Nagse-search ako sa internet dati para maghanap lang ng araro o engine cover para sa Bravo ko, (one of a kind kasi kaya hirap maghanap) dun ko nadiscover na merun palang yahoo groups exclusively for Honda Bravo user, nag search pa ako ng ibang site, napadpad naman ako sa blogg ni sir cool ( Arlan ), pagkatapos ng ilang araw na pagse-search ko nakita ko ung Hondabravo.ning.com (rest in peace) na web site. nagtry ako magbasa-basa ng mga thread at magbrowse ng mga pics.. dami ko nakitang mods, may mag asteeg, may mga simple lang, peru ang hindi naalis sa utak ko ay ang modz ni K.R.U.G.A.
1. XRM Telescopic
2. Baso ng wave
3. DIsk brake
4. Butterfly (raider)
5. Handle Bar (raider)
6. Master Caliper
7. Duguang Bulsa
yan ung mga binili ko para magaya ko ung modz ni K.R.U.G.A. but as of now, one of a kind pa din ang MC ni Elias (real name ni K.R.U.G.A.) halos hindi ko pa nakukuha kahit kalahati ng modz ni elias, peru kahit papanu pwede ko pa din sabihin na one of kind pa din ang Bravo ko dito sa Manila, sa pagkaka alam ito pa lang ang merun ganitong modz (correct me if Im wrong)
1. K.R.U.G.A - Cavite
2. Erwin - Tarlac
3. Nel - Tarlac
4. Mhelz - Pampanga
5. Bry - Cavite
6. Randy - Tarlac
7. Aouei - Manila (nag iisa sa manila ??)
Sa mga future newbies natin na gusto maging Bravo-R pwede nilang basahin ang thread na ito.
Sa mga nasa listahan ko sana makapag share din kau ng experience, comments and suggestion regarding sa napili nating Modz.
Thank's
-----
-----
From Randy
wew, dami narin pala naka BRAVO-R d2... d2 samin sa angeles one of a kind ung akin heheheh... ung convertions ko weh masasabi ko medyo mura... e2 prices nila
1.telescopic shock (xrm) - 950
2.butterfly - 320
3.t-post - 320
4.handle bar - 350
5.labor - 300
lahat yan brand new... medyo madali nlng kc ung convertion nung akin kc ngpadisc brake dati pa.. un lang po... tnx.. ride safe and GOD bless u all..
-----
From Nel
mga Sir, pde po hindi ka magdisc sa harap tulad ng sa mods ko, stock baso din ginamit pinalit lng telescopic pang XRM at stock t-post pa din kc gusto ko matibay xa kya di ko pinagalaw. as of now, ibabalik ko ung stock telescopic ko na maiksi kya ang imomods ko ay ang butterfly ko, nale magpapasadya ako ng handle bar na may kabitan ng headlight pra sumunod pa din ang headlight ko at tatanggaling ko ung butterfly, ilalagay ko ang post handle bar ng mga bike at dun ko isasalpak ang handle bar ko, tulad ng mga ginagawa sa wave 100 at 125 na walang ulo ^^
----
From Aouei
handling..? same as stock.. pag xrm style medju limited ng konti ung pagliko mo since iba ung stopper ng bravo sa xrm kahit itanung niu pa sa mag nagpaconvert.. raider style..? no idea.. peru ung butterfly ko pang raider tpos pang xrm pati ung telescopic.. mas maghanda isabay na ung disk brake para isang gastusan nalang.. ang para mas safe din since disk brake na as front.. HIH
---
From Erwin_b2i
yung akin hindi naman limitado ang pagliko... ang ginamit ko ay stock t-post ng bravo... then yung ibabaw nya ay pinabawasan ng kaunti kasi mahaba at pinatorno para sa lalagyan ng malaking bolt na hahawak at lolock sa butterfly. hindi din sila swak kung gamit ay XRM butterfly (pero ito ang ginamit ko), kinailangan ko din sya ipatorno para papantay sa butas ng butterly at t-post na lalagyan ng telescopic fork... kaya yung stopper nya ay dati pa din.. yung stopper ng pagliko ay nasa t-post banda....
sa mga gumamit ng xrm t-post... itry nyo po i-compare ang poste ng stock sa poste ng nabibiling xrm t-post... mas maliit po ang sa xrm at mas mataba ng kaunti ang stock. which is, swak na swak yung stock sa chasis... kung ginamit nyo ay yung pang xrm, pansinin nyo po ang kung may aalog sa manibela nyo lalo na pag may lubak. kasi ang kumakapit lang po sa chasis nyo ay yung bearing.. kung yung bearing ay nabasag o kaya madislocate ang mga bolitas delikado po yun.
---
from Boyulo
mga idol... kaka convert ko palang bravo ko pero diko alam pano maitransfer yung susian sa may butterfly pang motorstar msx ang gamit ko, pwede pain pang mailock yung manibela pag itratransfer na yung susian? thnx mga idol...
----
from Erwin b2i
tungkol sa susian.. sa xrm na butterfly, meron pong circle slot para sa location ng susian kaya lang yung lock wala na po. yun ang hindi ko nagawan ng paraan. Instead, bumili ako ng U-lock na nilalagay ko sa front wheel, dun ko sinususi..
---
from Boyulo
wahahahaha.... natapus din conversion ko... front drum brake fitting nalang....
cost breakdown:
telescopic set: P1500
butterfly: P670
handle bar: P550
side mirror bracket R&L W/ brake lever: P275
butterfly torno: P300
labor: P250
Merienda: P100
transport: P120
beer: P200
for a total of: P3890
astig na sya mas gwapo na sa shogun pro ko... hehehe... tnx po sa mga idol ko...
sakto yan... pang motorstar yung crown/butterfly ko... sumakto nman sya sa fork... pag xrm crown/butterfly ang gamit mo sakto na mas konti pa ang gastos mo sa machine shop kasi torno lang ang paluluwangin para sakto sa top ng t-post mo... hope it helps... try mo i-review mga previous posts ng mga bossing natin para maliwanagan ka...
Continued on Part 2
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)