Kawasaki Bajaj Rouser 135LS ( aka Pulsar 135LS in India ) Part 2

I have another motorcycle which is an underbone.  To justify the purchase, I was hoping that the Bajaj Rouser will be better than my Honda Bravo.

In terms of power, it is indeed more powerful.  It pulls harder and 80kph is easily attainable.  While the little bike's top speed is around 90kph, the Rouser cruises at this speed with no problem.

Braking is also more confident and I believe this has something to do with the chassis.  Although the frame that comes with the Rouser may not be the best chassis design out there, it is way better than the underbone.

One aspect in which the underbone is probably marginally better is on curves.  Note that this is very subjective.  My theory is that the weight difference is coming into play since the Rouser is 25kgs heavier.  Some people say that underbones are notoriously known for their excessive body roll but I find it easier to throw the UB bike on corners.  But then as I mentioned earlier, it could be just me, the rider.

On the average, Rouser consumes 45km/L which is about 5km/L less than what I would normally get on the Bravo.  But for the pull and speed that it is able to give it is not a big deal.  Besides, in comparison to other brands with similar displacement it is at par if not better in terms of frugality.

Tires are MRFs which most users find slippery.  I thought the same too but my front tire lasted for 50,000 kms.  I replaced it only when the thread center line ran out.  I remember we had a group ride wherein I was designated as the spear.  We traveled a twisty mountain road while it was raining.  I thought I was riding cautiously but when we had to stop some guys told me I was fast.  And I was on stock front tire.

I believe the choice of tires has a huge effect on a bike's handling.  I've tried replacing the rear MRF with FDR Genzi 100/80 and it felt more stable.  But one good thing about the stock MRF is its durability.   Front tire lasted for 3 years while the rear lasted for about 2 and a half years.  I never had a flat on those tires.

Headlight is also good.  Often times, motorists from the opposite lane would give me flashing signal perhaps thinking I was on high beam even though the headlight is on low.  I also like the dual horns.

One thing which I haven't been able to figure out is the adjustment of the side mirrors.  I'm not really a big guy and my shoulders are not that wide but it would cover half of the view on both mirrors.

As of this writing, the odometer reads ~64,000 kms and 3+ years of owning the machine  I will be trying to recall my experience with this bike from memory.  This is the 2nd installment on the same topic and for the third and final post, I plan on writing about the problems encountered on this bike and maybe share the lessons learned.

Rouser Part 1

Honda Bravo After 5+ Years

Well, I have this motorcycle for five and a half years with no major problems.  I was just doing regular maintenance which is basically changing oil every 2,000 kms and that's it.  I don't even bother checking on the spark plug.

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION
On the front side, the Wave 100 forks are still attached.  I remember replacing the fork oil at least twice but not on specific intervals.  When I feel that the motorcycle dives too much, that's the time to do it.
Rear shocks has been replaced with those coming from XRM 125 for 1k php.  I believe it is more durable compared to stock and it rides quite sporty (read : stiff.)  It is also shorter by some mm so the Bravo is now "lowered" .  Same brakes as in the last update but I've replaced the front pads one time.  The disc rotor by the way is showing signs of pitting.  Not sure if it is the proper term.  Since I am using parts from another motorcyle, the pads and disc are not matched mechanically and the outer portion of the disc is not in contact with the padss.  Therefore only the inside part is being worn out while that outside portion is not used up so it is thicker compared to the inside area.

RIMS AND TIRES
No changes in the rims but the tires are now 70/80 and 80/80 front-rear, respectively.  It seems to to give the bike a more flickable feeling.

ELECTRICALS
The stock Yuasa finally gave up after 4 years.  I replaced it with a gel type with some sort of battery health monitoring capability.  Simply press the button and the corresponding LED lights up.  You always want it to be green.  Maybe orange is still fine but definitely you shouldn't want it in red.
Except for the tail lights which is still AC powered, the motorcycle is almost a full-DC system including the headlight which now sports an LED bulb.  It was a pain to install because there is a fan and heat sink attached to this bulb and there was very little space inside the head light cowling.  I had to relocate the horn just to be able to complete the installation.

ENGINE
I can see leaks in the cylinder head and on the valve covers but not that much and therefore I am not worried.  My other motorcycle actually has a more serious leak problem.  The Bravo still pulls OK and can achieve the same top speed.  The current odometer reading is 27,000+ kms.  Bear in mind that this is actually 127,000+ kms since the meter can only display up to 99,999kms.  Yes, this motorcycle is getting old but it can still do 50kms to a liter.


Honda Bravo After 3 Years

Motorcycle Accidents

On a fateful evening of October last year (2009), I met an accident involving a jeepney.  

I was traversing the National Highway with my wife at around 8PM.   I was following a car perhaps about 3 to 4 cars length.  The road by the way was a long straight and a slight downgrade.  The car signaled that it was turning right so I slowed down a bit and moved to the left.  All of sudden I saw the jeepney's front right after the car has completed its turn.  It was coming from where the car is going and it was turning left. I don't know if the driver didn't look on the oncoming traffic or he was looking on the other lane.  Probably he thought that it was only a car and never cared to look again.

Since the jeepney's front has completely blocked my lane and I am pretty sure that hard braking will not be enough, I steered the bike to the left while braking hard.  Now I am on the opposite lane.  But the f----g jeepney didn't stop.  To make the story short, the bike's front wheel hit the jeepney's left front wheel.  My head banged on the jeep's fender.  I was pushed by the weight of my wife to the front and I felt pain on my left wrist.  It started to swell after a few minutes.

I am not a violent person but I thought that it was the best time to have a gun on hand.  The driver of the jeep acted as if we're at fault although he's the one who cut me off.  I am supposed to have the right of way.  He was telling me that since it was my motorcycle that hit his jeep, therefore I am at fault.  As if I did it intentionally which is 180 degrees of what we usually call common sense.

Kawasaki Bajaj Rouser 135LS ( aka Pulsar 135LS in India ) Part 1

Previously, I've posted about Honda CB110 because I was interested in buying one.  That was in 2010.  However, due to various reasons, that plan didn't materialize.

In November 2011, I crashed during that year's edition of the Manila-Matnog-Manila Endurance Challenge and I was forced to use the car for my daily commute since it was too risky to ride the Honda Bravo due to its damaged steering.  That incident gave me an additional motivation to acquire another motorcycle.  I love riding more than driving.

Although I've been eyeing the CB110, I am very concerned about its power ( or lack of it .)  Sure I can rev it hard but this might shorten the engine lifespan.  I knew that Kawasaki-Bajaj has been offering the Rouser locally -- first in 200cc and then 220cc (2010) later.  Any of the two should be more than enough for may power craving.   However, I am just a poor boy and I don't want to spend 100k php or so for my daily commuter.  Aside from that, fuel consumption is a potential turn off as well.

Then came the Rouser 135:LS (end of 2010.)  It was well received in the Philippines and it didn't take long before it became a common sight.  However, it is plagued with issues with owners reporting a lot of problems on local motorcycle forums.  In MCP which is probably the most popular, Rouser 135LS ' technical thread is probably the record holder for the most number of pages.  Fortunately, there were dedicated users/forumers who shared their learnings on how they were able to tame their machines.

On December 2011, I decided to get one for myself.  It was like a love and hate relationship.

Rouser 135LS Part 2

Motorcyling Myths!

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/streetsurvival/dangerous_motorcycle_safety_myths/

Honda Bravo After 3 Years

I skipped the 2nd year review of my Honda Bravo which is enough reason for me to write its 3rd year review.

As of August, 2012

Brakes and Suspension
The puny little bike is now sporting a front disc brake for more stopping power.  Although it will be much better for me not to ride too fast, I don't think I would be able to overcome the habit.  Prior to the conversion, I've changed the front and rear brake shoes once.
Disc brake caliper requires mounting holes on the fork and so I bought a 2nd hand set that came from a China bike.  Took me some time before I was able to tune the suspension.  Rear damping is still stock.

Rims and Tires
It is still the same wheel size 1.4 x 17 front and 1.6 x 17 rear but the tires are now back to stock.  I found out that the bike consume more gas on thicker (rear) tires.  So it is 2.25 x 17 front and 2.5 x 17 rear for the rubbers.

Electricals
I am using OSRAM 35W bulb which costs around 200Php in my area.  It is well worth the money.  I've changed the headlight socket several times, though.  I don't know where these stuffs are coming from because they break quite easily.
I have also converted the panel light to LED (DC) .  Stock was a peanut bulb driven by the alternator (AC.)  It is only a single bulb by the way the lights the whole thing up.  The tail light voltage has been rectified for future conversion to LED.
The battery is still stock.  Kudos to Honda for qualifying a component like this in their MCs and Yuasa for providing such an excellent product.  Can you imagine 3 years and I am still able to use the push start button!!

Engine
I can see some dark spots in the cylinder block indicating oil leakage.  I am not worried  as long as the concrete where the motorcycle sleeps is dry of oil which is the case so far.  I've changed the engine and rear sprockets several times to experiment speed and acceleration.  Right now it is back to 14/36 stock.  Drive chain has been replaced once being too noisy to DID 428.

For three years, this little motorcycle has proven its worth over and over again.   Reliability is simply bulletproof.  Maintenance cost is minimum while gas consumption is frugal.  Still gets 45-55 km/L depending on how I ride it but 50km/L average isn't something to complain about.


Additional Mods
1. Honda Wave 100R OEM shocks - much better ( P500 2nd hand )
2. Honda Wave pillion foot rests. - stock foot rest sawed off ( P500 2nd hand )
3. Honda XRM 110 exhaust pipe - thicker sound ( P1k 2nd hand )
4. 53mm block - more torque ( P1.6k + P200 shipping )
5. TMX 155 carburetor - ( P2k )

As of September, 2012

Honda Bravo After A Year

Honda Bravo Fork Oil Replacement (1)

I had an unfortunate accident back in 2009 that resulted to a sprained wrist and bent motorcycle forks.  That time I have no idea about repairs so instead of buying replacement forks, I had the fork tubes removed from the sliders to have it straightened in a local machine shop.

After they are nice and straight, the fork is then reassembled.  The mechanic used 2T oil instead of fork which is not a good idea.  The problem really is, here in the Philppines, it is quite hard to get fork oil for some reason.  Mechanics and DIYers have to make do with what is readily available with disappointing results. If I remember correctly, the 2T oil lasted only a few hundred kilometers before it started to leak.  Also the ride quality is not so good being on the harsher side.  I thought back then that I can fix the problem by tuning it.

I did some research in the internet and came to the conclusion that perhaps the mechanic put so much oil into the fork.  In the days and weeks that followed, I experimented with different amounts of 2T oil, 50mL, 60ml...so on but I was never happy.  So I ditch 2T oil and then searched for alternatives.

I found out that some people are using ATF instead.  Same experiments repeated again with disappointing results.  I then headed to Caloocan city which is probably the motorcycle parts and supplies capital of the Philippines.

I was able to find a shop that sells fork oil but only after trying a number of other shops.  That oil is really hard to find, indeed!  I bought a 500ml bottle of Repsol Horquillas in a Suzuki dealer store.

The performance is really different from the previous fluids I've tried.  I know I'm no expert but it felt like nothing happened to the forks because it feels like stock.
Lately, I converted the front drum to disc brakes.  No choice but to replace the front forks with the type that can hold a disc brake caliper.  I was able to find a used one from an internet seller.  Although it is not a Honda original, it was a plug and play affair when I tried it on my Bravo.  It didn't take long before I decided that I would re-tune the suspension.
I found that it was 2T oil that was inside forks because of the smell.  Not only that, it was lot of oil that was poured into the tube which explains the harsh ride.  The problem is, the old  Repsol which I bought earlier has been used up.  Fortunately, after scouring a city and 3 towns, I was able to find a shop that sells Phoenix fork oil in Sto. Tomas, Batangas.
After some trial and error, I settled with 70mL on each leg.

Disc Brake Conversion Cost

Some pricing information for those who would like to convert their front brakes from drum to disc.  I'm just curious if anybody would want to do it the other way around.  :D

Originally Posted by win_26  ( from MCP )
Breakdown ng Parts/Prices nung nagdisc brakes ako:

Front Shock Housing - P800.00 (Mcp Classifieds)
Wave 125 Disc Rotor and Rims - P1300.00 (Mcp Classifieds)
Xrm Nissin Master to Caliper -P2200.00 (Mcp Classifieds)
Wave 125 Caliper Bracket -P 189.00 (Honda)
Wave 125 Speedometer Assy -P 540.00 (Honda JT)
Wave 125 Bearings, Dust Cover, Collars, Speedometer Retainer - P 777.00 (Honda)
Wave 125 Hub Bolts - Wala ako idea kasi free lang bigay ng mechanic ko.

P5806.00 Total Cost (Wala pa yung labor parts pa lang)

I chose honda parts over yung nabibili sa shops since i want to make it look oem on my wave alpha.

Eto na naman yung quote ng TriumpJT for Master to Caliper

Brake Master - P2745.00
Cylinder Master - P2080.00
Disc Rotor - P1240.00
Hose - P 730.00

Goodluck. In my opinion, its worth it kahit sinasabi ng iba pricey. Pero safety is the no. 1 priority kaya i think of it as an investment.


Below is the breakdown for my own conversion.  Note that Honda Wave specially the 100cc series have a lot in common with Honda Bravo.

24 high tensile bolts - to fix the caliper, from a screw and nuts shop in Lipa
250 front fender - from a shop in Lipa
200 fender brackets - same shop as above
??? disc brake pads - from a shop in Lipa, fits XRM and Wave
100 speedometer cable -  from a shop in our town, for Honda C100 model
  40 side mirror thread adapter -  from a shop in Lipa
??? brake light switch - same shop where I bought the thread adapter
1000 - front forks - from an internet seller in Laguna, for a China bike not sure which model
2800 nissin brake set with master, caliper, lever, hub, tire rim, spokes, rotor disc, wheel speed sensor - from an internet seller in Manila, for a China bike not sure which model

It is around 4k PhP for my conversion.  I hope to get some money back if I am able to sell the stock parts just lying around in the storage.


Related Post
Honda Bravo Front Disc Brake Conversion

Honda Bravo Front Disc Brake Conversion

Several months of study, planning and search for parts finally paid off.  My puny but trusty Bravo is now sporting a disc brake in its front.  Well, the conversion isn't really complete at the moment but it is more on the aesthetics that needs to be ironed out.  But functional, yes it is and it is like a new found freedom brought about by more stopping power provided by the new equipment.

Here's a list of parts that I bought for the conversion

1.) disc brake system  (master, caliper, ABS, disc, hose, lever) - i got these items from an internet seller.  The master and caliper were both Nissin brand.  Dunno about the ABS which is like a small shiny canister between the hose and caliper.  Hose needs to be replaced because of cracks.  Lever also needs to be sanded and repainted to make it look good.  Disc is Ok which is good news.

2.) wheel set - 1.4 x 17 rims with hub and bearings also from the same internet seller.  I've got some spare tires, took one and it fitted perfectly on the rim.

3.) speedometer sensor - not sure if this is the correct name but it is the thing that attaches to the hub and  where one end of the speedometer cable is also connected.

4.) brake light switch - it was missing in the brake master.  It's a safety feature and therefore a must!

5.) bolts and washers - so that the brake caliper can be mounted on the fork.

6.) fork assembly - I bought this from another internet seller.  He used it in his own conversion but he eventually sold the the bike with the original forks.  I guess from a China bike because it is quite different.  Also not a Showa brand.

7.) speedometer cable - the original one for Bravo won't fit.

8.) side mirror thread adapter - the master caliper that also holds the right side mirror has a small hole.  The stock mirror's threaded end is a little bit larger.  I was thinking of having it rebored or rethreaded and the adapter is quite a lucky find.

9.) disc pads
10.) front fender - it is cheap, the old one won't fit because of the hole placements.
11.) retaining clips or brackets - this is for the front fender.  This thing clamps on the fork slider and holds the fender in place.

Whoa!!! I didn't realize that I bought all of those items above.  Cash spent is about 4k Php.  To recover some amount, I am thinking of selling the parts I removed from the bike.

Things to do :

1.) fix the handle bar - i sawed the metal that holds the right side mirror to give way for the brake master.  Some grinding, filing, sanding and painting will be required.

2.) brake system overhaul - i have this feeling the brake is quite sticky.  Some parts might be stuck.

3.) replace that brake hose

4.) tune the front forks - i am in the process of doing this at the moment.  I found out that the ride is too harsh specially for an old man's back.

Related posts:

Bravo R Conversion 1 and 2

Modified Honda Bravo

2012 Motorally

I was given this once in a lifetime chance to join the first ever Motorally last January 14, 2012.  The invite came via Richard aka YBR1.  He thought I am worthy enough to participate after joining the last two Manila-Matnog-Manila in 24hrs events.  I wonder if he is reading this but I'd like to express my gratitude to him, nevertheless.

The ride will cover total of 1000 miles or roughly 1600 kilometers passing through several provinces of Northern Luzon as shown below.

2012 Motorally Route

Bravo and Me in Aparri

Shopping For a New Ride

After my crash during the Manila-Matnog-Manila in November of 2011, I decided that I should get another motorcycle.  I travel more than 40kms one way on a daily basis during weekdays and it is too much of a hassle for me to use the public transportation.  Because of this aversion, I insisted on using my crash damaged Honda Bravo until the steering stem became a two piece part (luckily while parking the motorcycle.)  It could have been worse, I know.

The motorcycle market in the Philippines has changed for the better.  Several years ago, the choices are very limited if you're out on a lookout for a new ride especially if you're on a budget. It is either the underbones or the 'pantra' which are the business types that will eventually be attached to a sidecar for hauling more cargo and people.  Now aside from the Japanese Big 4 we've got Chinese and Indian brands even Malaysian offering a variety..... from scooters to tourers.  It therefore makes sense to formulate a criteria to aid in the selection process.  I have the outline below.

Cost
I am a poor guy with a limited budget and although I'd like to have a powerful motorcycle I don't have that much moolah to burn.  Based on my evaluation, I can only afford to throw away about Php 60k for a new bike.  My dream motorcycles by the way cost 100-150k.  But even before buying the bike, I have this idea of selling it after a year perhaps.  The cash will be then used to fund the purchase of my dream ride.

Power
I used to have a Honda Wave 125 and although it is more powerful than my Bravo I want my next bike to be something that is more powerful.  The Bravo cruises at about 80kph and could probably go up to 90kph but stability is a big concern.  I want something that can cruise happily at 100kph.  Top speed doesn't really matter but I'd be happy if it can go beyond 110kph.

Reliability
This is one of the characteristics that is a bit tough to estimate.  In this case you can't help but rely on the experiences of those who bought the bike and took to time write a review.  I spent a great deal of time lurking on internet forums digesting the feedback.  I've also asked and observed the actual users and my area.

Efficiency
I have a car and although it is quite frugal, my choice of transport is still the motorcycle because it is even more frugal.  My next ride should not get anything lower than 40km/L.

Looks
I am more a "function over form" guy and I don't really care if my bike looks ugly.  For as long as it is clean and does what I'd like it to do, I am happy.  But I wouldn't mind if my new bike will turn out to be an catcher.  Also, I don't want another underbone and I'm leaning towards a standard bike design (referred as backbone types in some literature.)

There you go.  I know that this may not be the most complete list but it should guide me and probably another in choosing his/her next bike.

Good luck and happy hunting to us.

Philippine Motorcycle Forums

Lurking most of the time....

MCP

PBRC

HFRC

HFRC (webs) 

Bravo R conversion (2)

After the research and armed with valuable information mostly gathered from the PBRC forums, the next logical  step is to decide which way to go.  There are actually several options on how the conversion task can be accomplished.  Of course it really depends on how deep someone's pocket is.

NOTE : Pictures are not mine so credits goes to their respective owners.

Too help me with the decision, I divided the parts needed into two groups, required and optional.

Handlebar -- required
The original Honda Bravo handlebar just slides into the exposed portion of the steering stem.  Just align the holes in both the handlebar and steering stem, insert the bolt into the aligned holes and then secure it with a nut on the other end.  XRM or Raider style handle bars are clip-on types which can be attached at the end of the fork tubes.

Fork Bridge -- required
Locally, this is known as the butterfly.  Machine shop service is needed depending on which motorcycle it was originally designed.  From what I've read so far, if it is an XRM part, the hole where the steering stem goes through needs to be enlarged.  With Raider and Motorstar MSX, no need because it just slides in nicely.

Fork tubes -- required
The original ones attached will have to be replaced with longer ones.

Fork sliders -- required
At least three options are available for this part and also depends whether if you want disc brake or not.  By the way, this part is as known as the fork covers locally.  The original sliders can still be used but it needs to be dismantled and the tubes removed.  As mentioned above, the longer fork tubes will be used instead.  This also means that front stopping will still be employing the drum brake.
Another option is to buy fork sliders designed for Honda Wave100R which is disc brake ready.  More parts will have to be bought if this will be the choice.
The third one is to buy XRM forks which are also disc brake ready.  My only concern with this option is that it is a different design and might affect the motorcycle's handling.  With XRM fork, the front wheel axle bolt is located at the end of the fork itself.  If a line is drawn from the fork tube to the axle bolt head/nut, the line will pass through both.  Wave100 and Bravo forks on the other hand has the axle bolt placed slightly forward.

Disc brake -- optional

A whole kit with all the necessary parts can be bought.  Make sure that the forks are ready as discussed above.  The wheel hub will need to be changed as well to accommodate the disc.  Some parts inside the wheel hub but related to the speedometer will be needed as well.

XRM type fork sliders

Front wheel fender -- required
The original can be retained if the stock fork sliders will be used.  Not sure if the same is true with the other options but I've seen fenders for Wave100 with clips and they looked really different compared to stock.

Probably Bravo or Wave 100 fork sliders

Steering stem -- optional
Can be replaced with the one that comes from an  XRM.  There were reported  issues about the bearings and turn radius.


I'm on a tight budget and the most likely choice for me obviously is the cheapest option.  Keep as much stock parts as possible so I don't have to buy a lot of parts.  I think I would just retain the drum brake.  Now the hunt for parts begins....
Good luck to me!

Part 1

Bravo R conversion (1)

My 2009 Honda Bravo now has 72,000++ kms in the odometer and although I am hopeful that it is not yet nearing its end-of-life, it could happen anytime.  Since it will be dead anyway, I thought now is the best time to do some experiments and learn something out of the experience.

One of the projects although not really a priority is doing the BravoR conversion.  In this particular conversion, the odd looking handlebar will be gone and will be replaced by a more normal looking steering parts.

At the moment, I am in research mode and fortunately, the guys at PBRC did a good job in documenting the process.  Below are some notable excerpts from the PBRC website regarding Bravo R conversion.

http://hondabravo.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/2747347-honda-bravo-r-conversion?page=1

From aouei

Sa mga boszing natin jan na gustong magkaroon ng idea kuna magkanu at paano nabuo ang Honda Bravo-R conversion, subukan natin i discuss dito ang mga duguang bulsa at nabawas na taba ng utak natin para lang maisabuhay ang pangarap nating
"Honda Bravo-R".

Nagse-search ako sa internet dati para maghanap lang ng araro o engine cover para sa Bravo ko, (one of a kind kasi kaya hirap maghanap) dun ko nadiscover na merun palang yahoo groups exclusively for Honda Bravo user, nag search pa ako ng ibang site, napadpad naman ako sa blogg ni sir cool ( Arlan ), pagkatapos ng ilang araw na pagse-search ko nakita ko ung Hondabravo.ning.com (rest in peace) na web site. nagtry ako magbasa-basa ng mga thread at magbrowse ng mga pics.. dami ko nakitang mods, may mag asteeg, may mga simple lang, peru ang hindi naalis sa utak ko ay ang modz ni K.R.U.G.A.

1. XRM Telescopic
2. Baso ng wave
3. DIsk brake
4. Butterfly (raider)
5. Handle Bar (raider)
6. Master Caliper
7. Duguang Bulsa

yan ung mga binili ko para magaya ko ung modz ni K.R.U.G.A. but as of now, one of a kind pa din ang MC ni Elias (real name ni K.R.U.G.A.) halos hindi ko pa nakukuha kahit kalahati ng modz ni elias, peru kahit papanu pwede ko pa din sabihin na one of kind pa din ang Bravo ko dito sa Manila, sa pagkaka alam ito pa lang ang merun ganitong modz (correct me if Im wrong)

1. K.R.U.G.A - Cavite
2. Erwin - Tarlac
3. Nel - Tarlac
4. Mhelz - Pampanga
5. Bry - Cavite
6. Randy - Tarlac
7. Aouei - Manila (nag iisa sa manila ??)

Sa mga future newbies natin na gusto maging Bravo-R pwede nilang basahin ang thread na ito.
Sa mga nasa listahan ko sana makapag share din kau ng experience, comments and suggestion regarding sa napili nating Modz.

Thank's

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From Randy


wew, dami narin pala naka BRAVO-R d2... d2 samin sa angeles one of a kind ung akin heheheh... ung convertions ko weh masasabi ko medyo mura... e2 prices nila

1.telescopic shock (xrm) - 950
2.butterfly - 320
3.t-post - 320
4.handle bar - 350
5.labor - 300

lahat yan brand new... medyo madali nlng kc ung convertion nung akin kc ngpadisc brake dati pa.. un lang po... tnx.. ride safe and GOD bless u all..

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From Nel

mga Sir, pde po hindi ka magdisc sa harap tulad ng sa mods ko, stock baso din ginamit pinalit lng telescopic pang XRM at stock t-post pa din kc gusto ko matibay xa kya di ko pinagalaw. as of now, ibabalik ko ung stock telescopic ko na maiksi kya ang imomods ko ay ang butterfly ko, nale magpapasadya ako ng handle bar na may kabitan ng headlight pra sumunod pa din ang headlight ko at tatanggaling ko ung butterfly, ilalagay ko ang post handle bar ng mga bike at dun ko isasalpak ang handle bar ko, tulad ng mga ginagawa sa wave 100 at 125 na walang ulo ^^

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From Aouei


handling..? same as stock.. pag xrm style medju limited ng konti ung pagliko mo since iba ung stopper ng bravo sa xrm kahit itanung niu pa sa mag nagpaconvert.. raider style..? no idea.. peru ung butterfly ko pang raider  tpos pang xrm pati ung telescopic.. mas maghanda isabay na ung disk brake para isang gastusan nalang.. ang para mas safe din since disk brake na as front.. HIH

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From Erwin_b2i

yung akin hindi naman limitado ang pagliko... ang ginamit ko ay stock t-post ng bravo... then yung ibabaw nya ay pinabawasan ng kaunti kasi mahaba at pinatorno para sa lalagyan ng malaking bolt na hahawak at lolock sa butterfly. hindi din sila swak kung gamit ay XRM butterfly (pero ito ang ginamit ko), kinailangan ko din sya ipatorno para papantay sa butas ng butterly at t-post na lalagyan ng telescopic fork... kaya yung stopper nya ay dati pa din.. yung stopper ng pagliko ay nasa t-post banda....



sa mga gumamit ng xrm t-post... itry nyo po i-compare ang poste ng stock sa poste ng nabibiling xrm t-post... mas maliit po ang sa xrm at mas mataba ng kaunti ang stock. which is, swak na swak yung stock sa chasis... kung ginamit nyo ay yung pang xrm, pansinin nyo po ang kung may aalog sa manibela nyo lalo na pag may lubak. kasi ang kumakapit lang po sa chasis nyo ay yung bearing.. kung yung bearing ay nabasag o kaya madislocate ang mga bolitas delikado po yun.
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from Boyulo

mga idol... kaka convert ko palang bravo ko pero diko alam pano maitransfer yung susian sa may butterfly pang motorstar msx ang gamit ko, pwede pain pang mailock yung manibela pag itratransfer na yung susian? thnx mga idol...

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from Erwin b2i

tungkol sa susian.. sa xrm na butterfly, meron pong circle slot para sa location ng susian kaya lang yung lock wala na po. yun ang hindi ko nagawan ng paraan. Instead, bumili ako ng U-lock na nilalagay ko sa front wheel, dun ko sinususi..


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from Boyulo



wahahahaha.... natapus din conversion ko... front drum brake fitting nalang....
cost breakdown:
telescopic set: P1500
butterfly: P670
handle bar: P550
side mirror bracket R&L W/ brake lever: P275
butterfly torno: P300
labor: P250
Merienda: P100
transport: P120
beer: P200
for a total of: P3890
astig na sya mas gwapo na sa shogun pro ko... hehehe... tnx po sa mga idol ko...


sakto yan... pang motorstar yung crown/butterfly ko... sumakto nman sya sa fork... pag xrm crown/butterfly ang gamit mo sakto na mas konti pa ang gastos mo sa machine shop kasi torno lang ang paluluwangin para sakto sa top ng t-post mo... hope it helps... try mo i-review mga previous posts ng mga bossing natin para maliwanagan ka...


Continued on Part 2

Manila-Matnog v.v. in 24 hours - Man and Machine Endurance Ride (2)

This post is very late and so I have forgotten some of the details about this ride that happened last year.  From today and counting the days back, it has been more than 100 days since that fateful midnight of November 28, 2010.

Perhaps because of the anticipation and excitement, I wasn't really able to get enough sleep the night prior the ride.  I tried to sleep during the day with no success.  Night came and  I decided to summon San Miguel's help.  It was effective or at least an hour.

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Update as of 11nov2011
I really can't find the time to finish this ride report.  Anyway you can click on the link below and read about what I posted in MCP.  Post #78 and #90

Manila-Matnog-Manila 24hrs 


We have another one coming this year 2011, almost the same route but 50kms more.

Manila-Matnog v.v. in 24 hours - Man and Machine Endurance Ride (1)

As early as September, I've been following a thread in MCP Rides and Touring section titled Manila-Matnog in 24hours Extreme Ride. Last year, they had a similar feat which I missed because a few days prior to this ride, I completed my solo ride to Caramoan also in Bicol region. Needless to say, I am very much interested in joining the challenge this year.
For rides like this, careful planning is required especially for those on small bikes. Since I'll be riding my Honda Bravo for this challenge, there is really no room for mistake like getting lost. As part of the planning, I studied the maps and the start and stop points which is both located along C5.
Never been to C5 on two wheels and the mentioned places in the forums where the challenge starts and ends is really unfamiliar. Three weeks before the ride, I went to the two Petron stations along C5 where the ride is supposed to start and end.
This is the Petron station after Market-Market and this is the place where we will start the long trip at 12 midnight of November 28.


And this is the Petron where we should be at before the 24 hour countdown ends.

Malabrigo Lighthouse

Malabrigo lighthouse was a surprise when I did the Lobo-Laiya loop ride.

Voltage Stabilizer for Motorcycles

I was lurking in MCP electrical forums and came across with a gadget called voltage stabilizer or VS.

Looking into the schematic, it is nothing but capacitors and wires of course.  A variation is to put a safety feature by inserting a fuse.
Some users claim of better horn performance, easy starting and even fuel economy to mention a few of the benefits.

I tried installing my version of a VS in my motorcycle.  This is how it looks like.  It fits nicely inside the U-box.  Now I have to figure where to put my other stuffs.  Things such as spare tube, wrenches and rain gears.

Unfortunately, I didn't really have the chance to test or gather data to verify the claims above.  I prefer the peace of mind having a spare tube, tools and rain gears.  Perhaps when I can afford to buy a Givi box.

Tricycles in the Fast Lane

The tricycle issue

Ask any motorcycle rider in the Philippines about their sources of frustration and grief while being on the road and tricycles will definitely be one of them.

What are tricycles

Tricycle is a common mode of public transport in the Philippines.  As the name implies, it has three wheels, two for the motorcycle that propels the whole thing and one for the sidecar attached.  Most are powered by two stroke engines due to its torque characteristics but there was a law passed that requires all motorcycle manufacturers to produce four strokes only.  I haven't read that law myself but the effect can be verified by simply observing the traffic in the Philippine roads.

Usual encounters

For the old two strokes, the power plant is usually 100cc and having said this, the tricycle is severely underpowered. It is therefore not surprising that a tricycle cruises at about 40kph.  You can imagine running at twice their cruising speed and then at a certain junction, a tricycle driver decided to join your lane, you can't help but feel bad about your helpless situation.  It could've been better if there's no traffic on the other lane which is not always the case.  I could cite more equally stressful situations but I won't because a familiar reader might get a heart attack.

Adding more power

Being underpowered is one of the problems of these tricycles.  Fortunately, manufacturers are now selling motorcycles with higher capacities like the Barako 175.  I personally saw tricycles that can cruise at about 80kph which is an acceptable highway speed.  Safety wise, I am not sure and I believe even the government don't have an answer for this.

The main problem

Another problem with the tricycle and much more potent than the lack of power is the attitude of its drivers.  I am finding it really hard to describe how these guys drive but one thing is sure, most of them drive dangerously because they are like drivers from hell.  They would turn without signaling first, accelerate and decelerate erratically, ride during the night without headlights, tail lights or both just to name a few.  If the government would be competent enough to conduct a study to find out the real root causes of accidents on the road, tricycles would be one of the top ten in the pareto.

Honda Bravo Topspeed

Whenever a new motorcycle model comes out, one of the most asked question is the topspeed.  Even my Honda Bravo with its puny 100cc engine is not being spared from the curiosity.  Motorcycle and even non-motorcycle forums are full of arguments about the subject.


I have to admit, I am a speed freak myself but when I ride, I would constantly ask myself if the speed I'm running is safe or not.  The road itself has a certain beat and you need to follow its rhythm.  What I would like to say is that there is no sense in finding out your top speed when you're on a busy and crowded road full of pedestrians and motorists alike.


Too often, people would say the numbers they have achieved and will swear that it is indeed their top speed.  Later in the discussion, you'll find out what they have modified in their motorcycles.  On most underbones, speed is detected on the front wheel and therefore it is quite easy to "improve" your top speed by carefully choosing your front rubber.


But the question still remains.  How to determine that elusive top speed?


My suggestion is to learn first how your motorcycle measures speed.  Afterwards, find a more accurate measurement device like a GPS to calibrate out the error.  There are actually other methods which can be learned by doing some research.  Google is everbody's friend.


So what's the top speed of my Honda Bravo?  If the stars are aligned, this 100cc motorcycle can hit a good 100km/hr  based on its own speedometer and using the stock front tire.  In comparison, the handheld GPS reads just over 90km/hr.


Case closed!


Related Topics:
Honda Bravo Motorcycle
Modified Honda Bravo
Honda Bravo Review