Honda Bravo After 5+ Years

Well, I have this motorcycle for five and a half years with no major problems.  I was just doing regular maintenance which is basically changing oil every 2,000 kms and that's it.  I don't even bother checking on the spark plug.

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION
On the front side, the Wave 100 forks are still attached.  I remember replacing the fork oil at least twice but not on specific intervals.  When I feel that the motorcycle dives too much, that's the time to do it.
Rear shocks has been replaced with those coming from XRM 125 for 1k php.  I believe it is more durable compared to stock and it rides quite sporty (read : stiff.)  It is also shorter by some mm so the Bravo is now "lowered" .  Same brakes as in the last update but I've replaced the front pads one time.  The disc rotor by the way is showing signs of pitting.  Not sure if it is the proper term.  Since I am using parts from another motorcyle, the pads and disc are not matched mechanically and the outer portion of the disc is not in contact with the padss.  Therefore only the inside part is being worn out while that outside portion is not used up so it is thicker compared to the inside area.

RIMS AND TIRES
No changes in the rims but the tires are now 70/80 and 80/80 front-rear, respectively.  It seems to to give the bike a more flickable feeling.

ELECTRICALS
The stock Yuasa finally gave up after 4 years.  I replaced it with a gel type with some sort of battery health monitoring capability.  Simply press the button and the corresponding LED lights up.  You always want it to be green.  Maybe orange is still fine but definitely you shouldn't want it in red.
Except for the tail lights which is still AC powered, the motorcycle is almost a full-DC system including the headlight which now sports an LED bulb.  It was a pain to install because there is a fan and heat sink attached to this bulb and there was very little space inside the head light cowling.  I had to relocate the horn just to be able to complete the installation.

ENGINE
I can see leaks in the cylinder head and on the valve covers but not that much and therefore I am not worried.  My other motorcycle actually has a more serious leak problem.  The Bravo still pulls OK and can achieve the same top speed.  The current odometer reading is 27,000+ kms.  Bear in mind that this is actually 127,000+ kms since the meter can only display up to 99,999kms.  Yes, this motorcycle is getting old but it can still do 50kms to a liter.


Honda Bravo After 3 Years

Honda Bravo After 3 Years

I skipped the 2nd year review of my Honda Bravo which is enough reason for me to write its 3rd year review.

As of August, 2012

Brakes and Suspension
The puny little bike is now sporting a front disc brake for more stopping power.  Although it will be much better for me not to ride too fast, I don't think I would be able to overcome the habit.  Prior to the conversion, I've changed the front and rear brake shoes once.
Disc brake caliper requires mounting holes on the fork and so I bought a 2nd hand set that came from a China bike.  Took me some time before I was able to tune the suspension.  Rear damping is still stock.

Rims and Tires
It is still the same wheel size 1.4 x 17 front and 1.6 x 17 rear but the tires are now back to stock.  I found out that the bike consume more gas on thicker (rear) tires.  So it is 2.25 x 17 front and 2.5 x 17 rear for the rubbers.

Electricals
I am using OSRAM 35W bulb which costs around 200Php in my area.  It is well worth the money.  I've changed the headlight socket several times, though.  I don't know where these stuffs are coming from because they break quite easily.
I have also converted the panel light to LED (DC) .  Stock was a peanut bulb driven by the alternator (AC.)  It is only a single bulb by the way the lights the whole thing up.  The tail light voltage has been rectified for future conversion to LED.
The battery is still stock.  Kudos to Honda for qualifying a component like this in their MCs and Yuasa for providing such an excellent product.  Can you imagine 3 years and I am still able to use the push start button!!

Engine
I can see some dark spots in the cylinder block indicating oil leakage.  I am not worried  as long as the concrete where the motorcycle sleeps is dry of oil which is the case so far.  I've changed the engine and rear sprockets several times to experiment speed and acceleration.  Right now it is back to 14/36 stock.  Drive chain has been replaced once being too noisy to DID 428.

For three years, this little motorcycle has proven its worth over and over again.   Reliability is simply bulletproof.  Maintenance cost is minimum while gas consumption is frugal.  Still gets 45-55 km/L depending on how I ride it but 50km/L average isn't something to complain about.


Additional Mods
1. Honda Wave 100R OEM shocks - much better ( P500 2nd hand )
2. Honda Wave pillion foot rests. - stock foot rest sawed off ( P500 2nd hand )
3. Honda XRM 110 exhaust pipe - thicker sound ( P1k 2nd hand )
4. 53mm block - more torque ( P1.6k + P200 shipping )
5. TMX 155 carburetor - ( P2k )

As of September, 2012

Honda Bravo After A Year

Honda Bravo Fork Oil Replacement (1)

I had an unfortunate accident back in 2009 that resulted to a sprained wrist and bent motorcycle forks.  That time I have no idea about repairs so instead of buying replacement forks, I had the fork tubes removed from the sliders to have it straightened in a local machine shop.

After they are nice and straight, the fork is then reassembled.  The mechanic used 2T oil instead of fork which is not a good idea.  The problem really is, here in the Philppines, it is quite hard to get fork oil for some reason.  Mechanics and DIYers have to make do with what is readily available with disappointing results. If I remember correctly, the 2T oil lasted only a few hundred kilometers before it started to leak.  Also the ride quality is not so good being on the harsher side.  I thought back then that I can fix the problem by tuning it.

I did some research in the internet and came to the conclusion that perhaps the mechanic put so much oil into the fork.  In the days and weeks that followed, I experimented with different amounts of 2T oil, 50mL, 60ml...so on but I was never happy.  So I ditch 2T oil and then searched for alternatives.

I found out that some people are using ATF instead.  Same experiments repeated again with disappointing results.  I then headed to Caloocan city which is probably the motorcycle parts and supplies capital of the Philippines.

I was able to find a shop that sells fork oil but only after trying a number of other shops.  That oil is really hard to find, indeed!  I bought a 500ml bottle of Repsol Horquillas in a Suzuki dealer store.

The performance is really different from the previous fluids I've tried.  I know I'm no expert but it felt like nothing happened to the forks because it feels like stock.
Lately, I converted the front drum to disc brakes.  No choice but to replace the front forks with the type that can hold a disc brake caliper.  I was able to find a used one from an internet seller.  Although it is not a Honda original, it was a plug and play affair when I tried it on my Bravo.  It didn't take long before I decided that I would re-tune the suspension.
I found that it was 2T oil that was inside forks because of the smell.  Not only that, it was lot of oil that was poured into the tube which explains the harsh ride.  The problem is, the old  Repsol which I bought earlier has been used up.  Fortunately, after scouring a city and 3 towns, I was able to find a shop that sells Phoenix fork oil in Sto. Tomas, Batangas.
After some trial and error, I settled with 70mL on each leg.

Disc Brake Conversion Cost

Some pricing information for those who would like to convert their front brakes from drum to disc.  I'm just curious if anybody would want to do it the other way around.  :D

Originally Posted by win_26  ( from MCP )
Breakdown ng Parts/Prices nung nagdisc brakes ako:

Front Shock Housing - P800.00 (Mcp Classifieds)
Wave 125 Disc Rotor and Rims - P1300.00 (Mcp Classifieds)
Xrm Nissin Master to Caliper -P2200.00 (Mcp Classifieds)
Wave 125 Caliper Bracket -P 189.00 (Honda)
Wave 125 Speedometer Assy -P 540.00 (Honda JT)
Wave 125 Bearings, Dust Cover, Collars, Speedometer Retainer - P 777.00 (Honda)
Wave 125 Hub Bolts - Wala ako idea kasi free lang bigay ng mechanic ko.

P5806.00 Total Cost (Wala pa yung labor parts pa lang)

I chose honda parts over yung nabibili sa shops since i want to make it look oem on my wave alpha.

Eto na naman yung quote ng TriumpJT for Master to Caliper

Brake Master - P2745.00
Cylinder Master - P2080.00
Disc Rotor - P1240.00
Hose - P 730.00

Goodluck. In my opinion, its worth it kahit sinasabi ng iba pricey. Pero safety is the no. 1 priority kaya i think of it as an investment.


Below is the breakdown for my own conversion.  Note that Honda Wave specially the 100cc series have a lot in common with Honda Bravo.

24 high tensile bolts - to fix the caliper, from a screw and nuts shop in Lipa
250 front fender - from a shop in Lipa
200 fender brackets - same shop as above
??? disc brake pads - from a shop in Lipa, fits XRM and Wave
100 speedometer cable -  from a shop in our town, for Honda C100 model
  40 side mirror thread adapter -  from a shop in Lipa
??? brake light switch - same shop where I bought the thread adapter
1000 - front forks - from an internet seller in Laguna, for a China bike not sure which model
2800 nissin brake set with master, caliper, lever, hub, tire rim, spokes, rotor disc, wheel speed sensor - from an internet seller in Manila, for a China bike not sure which model

It is around 4k PhP for my conversion.  I hope to get some money back if I am able to sell the stock parts just lying around in the storage.


Related Post
Honda Bravo Front Disc Brake Conversion

Honda Bravo Front Disc Brake Conversion

Several months of study, planning and search for parts finally paid off.  My puny but trusty Bravo is now sporting a disc brake in its front.  Well, the conversion isn't really complete at the moment but it is more on the aesthetics that needs to be ironed out.  But functional, yes it is and it is like a new found freedom brought about by more stopping power provided by the new equipment.

Here's a list of parts that I bought for the conversion

1.) disc brake system  (master, caliper, ABS, disc, hose, lever) - i got these items from an internet seller.  The master and caliper were both Nissin brand.  Dunno about the ABS which is like a small shiny canister between the hose and caliper.  Hose needs to be replaced because of cracks.  Lever also needs to be sanded and repainted to make it look good.  Disc is Ok which is good news.

2.) wheel set - 1.4 x 17 rims with hub and bearings also from the same internet seller.  I've got some spare tires, took one and it fitted perfectly on the rim.

3.) speedometer sensor - not sure if this is the correct name but it is the thing that attaches to the hub and  where one end of the speedometer cable is also connected.

4.) brake light switch - it was missing in the brake master.  It's a safety feature and therefore a must!

5.) bolts and washers - so that the brake caliper can be mounted on the fork.

6.) fork assembly - I bought this from another internet seller.  He used it in his own conversion but he eventually sold the the bike with the original forks.  I guess from a China bike because it is quite different.  Also not a Showa brand.

7.) speedometer cable - the original one for Bravo won't fit.

8.) side mirror thread adapter - the master caliper that also holds the right side mirror has a small hole.  The stock mirror's threaded end is a little bit larger.  I was thinking of having it rebored or rethreaded and the adapter is quite a lucky find.

9.) disc pads
10.) front fender - it is cheap, the old one won't fit because of the hole placements.
11.) retaining clips or brackets - this is for the front fender.  This thing clamps on the fork slider and holds the fender in place.

Whoa!!! I didn't realize that I bought all of those items above.  Cash spent is about 4k Php.  To recover some amount, I am thinking of selling the parts I removed from the bike.

Things to do :

1.) fix the handle bar - i sawed the metal that holds the right side mirror to give way for the brake master.  Some grinding, filing, sanding and painting will be required.

2.) brake system overhaul - i have this feeling the brake is quite sticky.  Some parts might be stuck.

3.) replace that brake hose

4.) tune the front forks - i am in the process of doing this at the moment.  I found out that the ride is too harsh specially for an old man's back.

Related posts:

Bravo R Conversion 1 and 2

Modified Honda Bravo

Bravo R conversion (2)

After the research and armed with valuable information mostly gathered from the PBRC forums, the next logical  step is to decide which way to go.  There are actually several options on how the conversion task can be accomplished.  Of course it really depends on how deep someone's pocket is.

NOTE : Pictures are not mine so credits goes to their respective owners.

Too help me with the decision, I divided the parts needed into two groups, required and optional.

Handlebar -- required
The original Honda Bravo handlebar just slides into the exposed portion of the steering stem.  Just align the holes in both the handlebar and steering stem, insert the bolt into the aligned holes and then secure it with a nut on the other end.  XRM or Raider style handle bars are clip-on types which can be attached at the end of the fork tubes.

Fork Bridge -- required
Locally, this is known as the butterfly.  Machine shop service is needed depending on which motorcycle it was originally designed.  From what I've read so far, if it is an XRM part, the hole where the steering stem goes through needs to be enlarged.  With Raider and Motorstar MSX, no need because it just slides in nicely.

Fork tubes -- required
The original ones attached will have to be replaced with longer ones.

Fork sliders -- required
At least three options are available for this part and also depends whether if you want disc brake or not.  By the way, this part is as known as the fork covers locally.  The original sliders can still be used but it needs to be dismantled and the tubes removed.  As mentioned above, the longer fork tubes will be used instead.  This also means that front stopping will still be employing the drum brake.
Another option is to buy fork sliders designed for Honda Wave100R which is disc brake ready.  More parts will have to be bought if this will be the choice.
The third one is to buy XRM forks which are also disc brake ready.  My only concern with this option is that it is a different design and might affect the motorcycle's handling.  With XRM fork, the front wheel axle bolt is located at the end of the fork itself.  If a line is drawn from the fork tube to the axle bolt head/nut, the line will pass through both.  Wave100 and Bravo forks on the other hand has the axle bolt placed slightly forward.

Disc brake -- optional

A whole kit with all the necessary parts can be bought.  Make sure that the forks are ready as discussed above.  The wheel hub will need to be changed as well to accommodate the disc.  Some parts inside the wheel hub but related to the speedometer will be needed as well.

XRM type fork sliders

Front wheel fender -- required
The original can be retained if the stock fork sliders will be used.  Not sure if the same is true with the other options but I've seen fenders for Wave100 with clips and they looked really different compared to stock.

Probably Bravo or Wave 100 fork sliders

Steering stem -- optional
Can be replaced with the one that comes from an  XRM.  There were reported  issues about the bearings and turn radius.


I'm on a tight budget and the most likely choice for me obviously is the cheapest option.  Keep as much stock parts as possible so I don't have to buy a lot of parts.  I think I would just retain the drum brake.  Now the hunt for parts begins....
Good luck to me!

Part 1

Bravo R conversion (1)

My 2009 Honda Bravo now has 72,000++ kms in the odometer and although I am hopeful that it is not yet nearing its end-of-life, it could happen anytime.  Since it will be dead anyway, I thought now is the best time to do some experiments and learn something out of the experience.

One of the projects although not really a priority is doing the BravoR conversion.  In this particular conversion, the odd looking handlebar will be gone and will be replaced by a more normal looking steering parts.

At the moment, I am in research mode and fortunately, the guys at PBRC did a good job in documenting the process.  Below are some notable excerpts from the PBRC website regarding Bravo R conversion.

http://hondabravo.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/2747347-honda-bravo-r-conversion?page=1

From aouei

Sa mga boszing natin jan na gustong magkaroon ng idea kuna magkanu at paano nabuo ang Honda Bravo-R conversion, subukan natin i discuss dito ang mga duguang bulsa at nabawas na taba ng utak natin para lang maisabuhay ang pangarap nating
"Honda Bravo-R".

Nagse-search ako sa internet dati para maghanap lang ng araro o engine cover para sa Bravo ko, (one of a kind kasi kaya hirap maghanap) dun ko nadiscover na merun palang yahoo groups exclusively for Honda Bravo user, nag search pa ako ng ibang site, napadpad naman ako sa blogg ni sir cool ( Arlan ), pagkatapos ng ilang araw na pagse-search ko nakita ko ung Hondabravo.ning.com (rest in peace) na web site. nagtry ako magbasa-basa ng mga thread at magbrowse ng mga pics.. dami ko nakitang mods, may mag asteeg, may mga simple lang, peru ang hindi naalis sa utak ko ay ang modz ni K.R.U.G.A.

1. XRM Telescopic
2. Baso ng wave
3. DIsk brake
4. Butterfly (raider)
5. Handle Bar (raider)
6. Master Caliper
7. Duguang Bulsa

yan ung mga binili ko para magaya ko ung modz ni K.R.U.G.A. but as of now, one of a kind pa din ang MC ni Elias (real name ni K.R.U.G.A.) halos hindi ko pa nakukuha kahit kalahati ng modz ni elias, peru kahit papanu pwede ko pa din sabihin na one of kind pa din ang Bravo ko dito sa Manila, sa pagkaka alam ito pa lang ang merun ganitong modz (correct me if Im wrong)

1. K.R.U.G.A - Cavite
2. Erwin - Tarlac
3. Nel - Tarlac
4. Mhelz - Pampanga
5. Bry - Cavite
6. Randy - Tarlac
7. Aouei - Manila (nag iisa sa manila ??)

Sa mga future newbies natin na gusto maging Bravo-R pwede nilang basahin ang thread na ito.
Sa mga nasa listahan ko sana makapag share din kau ng experience, comments and suggestion regarding sa napili nating Modz.

Thank's

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From Randy


wew, dami narin pala naka BRAVO-R d2... d2 samin sa angeles one of a kind ung akin heheheh... ung convertions ko weh masasabi ko medyo mura... e2 prices nila

1.telescopic shock (xrm) - 950
2.butterfly - 320
3.t-post - 320
4.handle bar - 350
5.labor - 300

lahat yan brand new... medyo madali nlng kc ung convertion nung akin kc ngpadisc brake dati pa.. un lang po... tnx.. ride safe and GOD bless u all..

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From Nel

mga Sir, pde po hindi ka magdisc sa harap tulad ng sa mods ko, stock baso din ginamit pinalit lng telescopic pang XRM at stock t-post pa din kc gusto ko matibay xa kya di ko pinagalaw. as of now, ibabalik ko ung stock telescopic ko na maiksi kya ang imomods ko ay ang butterfly ko, nale magpapasadya ako ng handle bar na may kabitan ng headlight pra sumunod pa din ang headlight ko at tatanggaling ko ung butterfly, ilalagay ko ang post handle bar ng mga bike at dun ko isasalpak ang handle bar ko, tulad ng mga ginagawa sa wave 100 at 125 na walang ulo ^^

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From Aouei


handling..? same as stock.. pag xrm style medju limited ng konti ung pagliko mo since iba ung stopper ng bravo sa xrm kahit itanung niu pa sa mag nagpaconvert.. raider style..? no idea.. peru ung butterfly ko pang raider  tpos pang xrm pati ung telescopic.. mas maghanda isabay na ung disk brake para isang gastusan nalang.. ang para mas safe din since disk brake na as front.. HIH

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From Erwin_b2i

yung akin hindi naman limitado ang pagliko... ang ginamit ko ay stock t-post ng bravo... then yung ibabaw nya ay pinabawasan ng kaunti kasi mahaba at pinatorno para sa lalagyan ng malaking bolt na hahawak at lolock sa butterfly. hindi din sila swak kung gamit ay XRM butterfly (pero ito ang ginamit ko), kinailangan ko din sya ipatorno para papantay sa butas ng butterly at t-post na lalagyan ng telescopic fork... kaya yung stopper nya ay dati pa din.. yung stopper ng pagliko ay nasa t-post banda....



sa mga gumamit ng xrm t-post... itry nyo po i-compare ang poste ng stock sa poste ng nabibiling xrm t-post... mas maliit po ang sa xrm at mas mataba ng kaunti ang stock. which is, swak na swak yung stock sa chasis... kung ginamit nyo ay yung pang xrm, pansinin nyo po ang kung may aalog sa manibela nyo lalo na pag may lubak. kasi ang kumakapit lang po sa chasis nyo ay yung bearing.. kung yung bearing ay nabasag o kaya madislocate ang mga bolitas delikado po yun.
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from Boyulo

mga idol... kaka convert ko palang bravo ko pero diko alam pano maitransfer yung susian sa may butterfly pang motorstar msx ang gamit ko, pwede pain pang mailock yung manibela pag itratransfer na yung susian? thnx mga idol...

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from Erwin b2i

tungkol sa susian.. sa xrm na butterfly, meron pong circle slot para sa location ng susian kaya lang yung lock wala na po. yun ang hindi ko nagawan ng paraan. Instead, bumili ako ng U-lock na nilalagay ko sa front wheel, dun ko sinususi..


---

from Boyulo



wahahahaha.... natapus din conversion ko... front drum brake fitting nalang....
cost breakdown:
telescopic set: P1500
butterfly: P670
handle bar: P550
side mirror bracket R&L W/ brake lever: P275
butterfly torno: P300
labor: P250
Merienda: P100
transport: P120
beer: P200
for a total of: P3890
astig na sya mas gwapo na sa shogun pro ko... hehehe... tnx po sa mga idol ko...


sakto yan... pang motorstar yung crown/butterfly ko... sumakto nman sya sa fork... pag xrm crown/butterfly ang gamit mo sakto na mas konti pa ang gastos mo sa machine shop kasi torno lang ang paluluwangin para sakto sa top ng t-post mo... hope it helps... try mo i-review mga previous posts ng mga bossing natin para maliwanagan ka...


Continued on Part 2

Manila-Matnog v.v. in 24 hours - Man and Machine Endurance Ride (2)

This post is very late and so I have forgotten some of the details about this ride that happened last year.  From today and counting the days back, it has been more than 100 days since that fateful midnight of November 28, 2010.

Perhaps because of the anticipation and excitement, I wasn't really able to get enough sleep the night prior the ride.  I tried to sleep during the day with no success.  Night came and  I decided to summon San Miguel's help.  It was effective or at least an hour.

----
Update as of 11nov2011
I really can't find the time to finish this ride report.  Anyway you can click on the link below and read about what I posted in MCP.  Post #78 and #90

Manila-Matnog-Manila 24hrs 


We have another one coming this year 2011, almost the same route but 50kms more.

Manila-Matnog v.v. in 24 hours - Man and Machine Endurance Ride (1)

As early as September, I've been following a thread in MCP Rides and Touring section titled Manila-Matnog in 24hours Extreme Ride. Last year, they had a similar feat which I missed because a few days prior to this ride, I completed my solo ride to Caramoan also in Bicol region. Needless to say, I am very much interested in joining the challenge this year.
For rides like this, careful planning is required especially for those on small bikes. Since I'll be riding my Honda Bravo for this challenge, there is really no room for mistake like getting lost. As part of the planning, I studied the maps and the start and stop points which is both located along C5.
Never been to C5 on two wheels and the mentioned places in the forums where the challenge starts and ends is really unfamiliar. Three weeks before the ride, I went to the two Petron stations along C5 where the ride is supposed to start and end.
This is the Petron station after Market-Market and this is the place where we will start the long trip at 12 midnight of November 28.


And this is the Petron where we should be at before the 24 hour countdown ends.

Honda Bravo Topspeed

Whenever a new motorcycle model comes out, one of the most asked question is the topspeed.  Even my Honda Bravo with its puny 100cc engine is not being spared from the curiosity.  Motorcycle and even non-motorcycle forums are full of arguments about the subject.


I have to admit, I am a speed freak myself but when I ride, I would constantly ask myself if the speed I'm running is safe or not.  The road itself has a certain beat and you need to follow its rhythm.  What I would like to say is that there is no sense in finding out your top speed when you're on a busy and crowded road full of pedestrians and motorists alike.


Too often, people would say the numbers they have achieved and will swear that it is indeed their top speed.  Later in the discussion, you'll find out what they have modified in their motorcycles.  On most underbones, speed is detected on the front wheel and therefore it is quite easy to "improve" your top speed by carefully choosing your front rubber.


But the question still remains.  How to determine that elusive top speed?


My suggestion is to learn first how your motorcycle measures speed.  Afterwards, find a more accurate measurement device like a GPS to calibrate out the error.  There are actually other methods which can be learned by doing some research.  Google is everbody's friend.


So what's the top speed of my Honda Bravo?  If the stars are aligned, this 100cc motorcycle can hit a good 100km/hr  based on its own speedometer and using the stock front tire.  In comparison, the handheld GPS reads just over 90km/hr.


Case closed!


Related Topics:
Honda Bravo Motorcycle
Modified Honda Bravo
Honda Bravo Review

Modified Honda Bravo

By design, the Honda Bravo motorcycle is meant to be modified.  When it was initially released, some "standard" parts were missing but was added back in the revised version.

Since no other motorcycle in the Philippines has something like the handlebar installed in the Honda Bravo, it is one of the immediate parts that will be changed by their owners.  Difficulty and cost depends a lot on how the end product would look like.  As an example, cutting the original handlebar, bending it up such that an aftermarket "Raider" handle can be attached is less costly than replacing the whole handle bar with an aftermarket one.  For the second type, most often that not, these are imported or custom made.

Another way to modify the Honda Bravo's handlebar is what is now called Bravo R conversion.  This means more work done on the head, fork is replaced with one that has longer tube, addition of butterfly would be necessary and sawing the fairing will be required.  After the job is done, the headlight now moves as you turn the handlebar and converting the front brake to disc brake should take less time and effort.
Below is a Bravo R from a member of PBRC.

The next modifications are similar to how people would modify other undebone models.  Also, since there's a lot of things common to Honda Wave 100 and Honda Bravo, there's a good chance that there are interchangeable parts between these two models.

The Rider's GPS

I bought a GPS unit at Circuit City in California when my previous company sent me to the US for a training.  Regular price was $150 but the sale price was reduced to $100.  Not a bad deal plus the fact that I really like to own one.  Another thing is that the rental car I used while I was there is GPS equipped and I found it really cool.



The unit a bought is a handheld Magellan GPS.  Not much help if you're on the road because the default map is very basic.  If I want a detailed map, I would need to shell out some cash.  It also unfortunate that the default map with main roads and points of interests are in the US.  The map of the whole world is there but is not very defined especially the coastal areas.  As an example, when you're on a seashore, the GPS would indicate that you're actually in the water but in actual, you are a good 10 meters away from getting wet.

So what do I use this gadget for?

Well I use my GPS when I do long rides.  With a printed map, it is a good tool to show where you are.  GPS units usually plots your location every second or depending on how you set it to update.  Comparing the map and the GPS track, you'll know if you made a wrong turn, etc.

This unit is also good if you're trekking.  I live at the foot of a mountain called Makulot.   Me and my son would do a climb whenever there's a chance.  We can then be a bit adventurous by not following the trail without fear of getting lost.  It is quite easy to do trackback.

This unit is powered using two AA batteries.  In my case, I bought 2500 mAh rechargeables.  Battery life is about 6 hours.

Honda Bravo Motorcycle

I recently acquired a brand new Honda Bravo through the kindness of my father-in-law exactly a week after my Wave 125 was stolen.  It is not a gift by the way but the terms of payment is pay whenever I can. It is also his daughter's motorcycle after all since it is her name that is written in the receipt.

I love almost everything about this motorcycle. Yeah, it doesn't run as fast as my previous motorcycle but I really love the suspension and the exotic look. It is a head-turner although most people's comments are in the negative. I'm reading the forums and there are mixed reviews regarding this motorcycle. A guy even commented that he cannot believe that Honda, with all the prestige associated with the brand would release such an ugly duckling. I don't care really...

As of today I've logged more than 4500 kms with this motorcycle. Nothing breaks yet except for the flat rear tire last week. I don't think the rear tire would last for another 5k kms as the grooves are starting to disappear. On my old Wave125, the stock Dunlop lasted for a year or 17k kms in the odometer. Bravo comes with Inoue tire as default.

I'm planning to change to a wider rear tire, Dunlop TT900 90/80 would be ok I think. But then I also need to buy a wider rim, 1.85 for that low profile look. I've got an spare rear hub for Wave125 and hopefully it will fit the Bravo. I'd call this Oplan Palapad.

Don't get this motorcycle if you're more of a speed freak. Reality check, it is a mere 100cc. But this motorcycle handles quite well and inspires confidence so I tend to cruise faster than most vehicles on the road. This is unacceptable to some riders and then the chase begins. I drive defensively but I'm also driving like I stole this motorcycle specially on open roads. Hearing the exhaust roar really makes my day. You won't see me smiling though as I'm wearing a face mask and helmet of course. Also the brakes are more than adequate-even better than Wave 125 in my opinion.

So how fast is this Honda Bravo? I can only tell you from my personal experience. 80kph is easily attainable but I cruise at a little over 90kph. That is on level surface and at full throttle, my Bravo clocks almost 100kph. It never hits the 100kph or more unless it is a downgrade.

I think I'll have a lot of fun with this motorcycle in days and years to come. I'm lovin' it.


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